Once the asphalt ramp is over, the most painful stretch of the road, we reach an excellent lookout that allows us to enjoy a good view of the reservoir and the Valentine Barrio. A little later the track runs parallel to the river. When it wanders the way, without crossing, we follow the shore to the corners full of charm that we will meet. Later we will be forced to leave the shore to access a lane. We continue upstream, until we reach the Dike Cascade, very easy to distinguish because in its crown it has stone walls. A little lower, hidden in the bush, a beautiful leap of water is hidden that we must not miss.

Overcoming the Cascade of the Dique, part of a path that, at first, crosses the channel twice and takes us to the head of the river. Leaving the bottom of the ravine for a long time, and then returning to it, when the road ends on a forest track, we reach the bottom of the Cerrada de Navas, where the Guazalanco offers one of its most beautiful pictures.

However, to get to this point from above and to make the way down the stream, you can make an interesting route from the Nature Hall and Botanical Garden of El Hornico: Route of Guazalamanco on the Prays of Arredondo. This circular itinerary is signposted and has 13.2 (circular) length. If two vehicles are available and leaving one on the Cuesta del Cement, we reduce the route to 8.8 km and, in addition, we avoid the most flat and monotonous part of the route, the Dehesa del Rincón.

The most direct access to the Guazalamanco River is by the Dehesa del Rincón. From Pozo Alcón you have to take the A-326, up the Avenida de la Bolera, direction to Castril. By passing the campsite de la Bolera and the Km. 7, we take a detour that comes to our left and that borders the Forest House of la Bolera (it indicates to the Hornico). On an unasphalted road, always following the main road, 6,7 km from its start a fork to the left, in a slope, is left, which is asphalted (Cuesta del Cement). Although with an apron we can reach the Pasada de Guazalamanco, by a forest track parallel to the channel, the most recommended option is to leave the vehicle at the foot of the hill and take a small walk to the Cascade del Dique (round and round 2.5 km), and enjoy the many corners that this beautiful and wild mountain stream offers us.

Because until you're with him you're not aware of his proportions. Embrace and surround it is impossible if 4 or 5 people do not join, as its perimeter reaches 5.40 meters. For its dimensions it is part of the Project "Trees: Legends vivables," a beautiful work of cataloging unique trees of the Iberian Peninsula.

This wonderful pine tree has survived the intense forest activity that developed on these lands for several centuries. Many of his companions, who are no longer present, were part of the ships that were built for the Spanish Navy between the 16th and 18th centuries. It was the time when the Serra de Segura saw was the Maritime Province. But the Galapan is still with us to show you its splendor.

We suggest...

• Enjoy a good time sitting next to the Pino Galapán, under his cup, watching the water spread through the stream of the Juan Fría and appreciating this natural monument, which for centuries has been the inspiration of legends, stories, writings and traditions.

• Since you have come to that you can continue on the forest track until you look at the fields of Hernán Perea, another of the natural treasures of the Park. You won't regret it.

From Santiago de la Espada you have to follow the road A-317 towards La Matea, and through this town continue to the village of Don Domingo. Once there you have to take a forest track in perfect condition, marked for hiking as GR 144. This track is directed towards Rambla Seca and the fields of Hernán Perea. As you pass a bridge you will find a first crossing where, on the right, the route to the Pino Galapán is indicated. 2.6 km from this crossing you will find it in the right margin of the road.

From the road you will find a road that goes down to the reservoir dam, where the vision is even more spectacular, with the impressive Pico Morrión standing out at the bottom.

This area of the Park represents better than any of the world of mountain villages: landscape, culture, gastronomy, odors, colors, life forms that when we come from the city we find unreal; as if it were not possible to live integrated into nature, living from the resources it provides but without damaging it.

Around the reservoir there are villages held in the time that each of them offers you different delicacies: the bread and the cakes of Tobos made in a historic wood oven, or the magnificent Vites spirit with which to make delicious artisanal liquors such as the pachan or the mistela.

We suggest...

• Eating in the surroundings of the reservoir: Segureño lamb, slaughter viandas or any serrano dish will be safe of your liking.

• Visit some of the villages near the reservoir, such as Marchena, La Muela or Miller.

This reservoir is located halfway between the town of Santiago de la Espada and the village of the Miller Boards, on the local road JF-7038, at the height of the village of Morrión.

We will find numerous cortijos, some standing and others in ruins, faithful examples of popular architecture. As we advance our journey, we are shown forests of majestic pine trees, authentic sabinars, dense riverside forests in the streams and centuries-old examples of oak trees and complaints.

ROTOMETER:

Km 0.0. Departure.In the square of the Constitution of Hinojares (x = 500190; and = 4174475), at the height of the Fountain of the Frogs, we put the CK at 0.0 and we left the village upwards, on the street of the Church, towards the road of Tícar (A-6206).

Km 1.5 Cross of the Tranco de la Zorra (x = 501180; and = 4175910).In the stop we put the CK at 0.0 and turn left.

Km 1,1. Cuenca cross (x = 501825, and = 4175910).We left the main road, to turn right.

Km 3.7. Cuenca (x = 502725; and = 4176830).We park the car in the Consultorio, to visit the Birth of Seven Fuentes and the village; to reach the remains of the fortress and medieval village of the Castellones de Cuenca is complicated, but on the return to the main road, as we pass the last houses of the village, we can see the enclave on the other side of the ravine. When we reach the A-6206, in the stop we put the CK at 0.0 and turn right.

Km 10.2. Belerda Cross (x = 498490; and = 4180130).We're still on the front, direction Quesada. Another option is to turn left to visit The Casillas of Don Pedro and Las Belerdas and return back to this point, where we will follow left; the next point is 0.3 km.

Km 10.5. Entry into the Water Cave (x = 498220; and = 4180260).We turn left; 300 m away are the parking and access to a great open oquedad, crossed by the Arroyo de Tiscar, proposed as a Natural Monument; on leaving to the main road we turn left, to visit the Sanctuary and Castle of Peña Negra. We return to the A-6206, direction Quesada and to the entrance of the Vadillo Road (x = 498015; and = 4180895) we put the CK at 0.0.

Km. 4.8. Port of Tiscar (x = 496675; and = 4182345).We left the car in a space that we found on the right of the road, to go up, taking a walk, to the Atalaya del Infante Don Enrique (13th century) that is enabled as a lookout; behind the tower, the Picón del Rayal (1,834 m.), in the form of a colossal wave; "rayal" was synonymous with "border" in the Reconquista.

Km. 13.5. Quesada (x = 494160; and = 4188735).Here we can visit the Arc of the Saints, the Arc of the Maquita of Utrera, the remains of the Arab Alcazaba, the two churches and the Museum of Rafael Zabaleta.

We will walk through a varied landscape of low and half mountain, between olive groves and masses of carrasco and black pine with abundant Mediterranean forest, spilled by beautiful walnuts, complaints and pineapples. We can also see well-preserved river vegetation.

Between the Dehesa del Oso and Villarrodrigo there are long sections from which we will enjoy a wide range of views of all theNatural Park. In the vicinity of Villarrodrigo you can see the last eastern foothills of Sierra Morena and the transition landscape formed by dehesas.

The corvids, such as the lard and the corneas, as well as the boar, are abundant. In the area of the Cambrón there is an interesting colony of leonate vulture.

The ruins of the castle are impressive because of its elevated situation and the remains of houses and rooms made in tapial that are around it. From above you can observe much of the valley and see, right in front, the castle of Segura and a little below the Arab towers of Santa Catalina and Orcera. We suggest that you walk through the forest track that links this village with that of El Tobazo, by forest track with very little level marked for hiking like GR-146.

Ancient gardens turned into meadows when they are left without use, fruit, ferns, pine, oak, are present throughout the village. The houses are located around a square where we find silence only broken by the sound of the water of the fountain. Unpossible alleyways and windows of another time live together with rehabilitated houses and old laundry houses no longer used.

In the Utrera Strike there is a small path that goes towards the Water Cave that is worth the spectacular cave and the landscape surrounding the village.

The Civil War unevenly affected the province of Jaén, which remained in the Republican area until 28 March 1939, almost the end of the War. In many municipalities, agricultural communities had been implemented and some initiatives had been abruptly interrupted after the end of the war. As was the case during the Napoleonic invasion, these saws facilitated the emergence of groups of armed resistance, known as maquis. Some of his family and friends always tried to help them, at the risk of reprisals for collaborating with the guerrilla.

In the Sierra de Segura, he highlighted Sixto García Espinosa, "that of Marchena," who led a group that resisted until 1950 in caves near the village of Marchena, near Santiago de la Espada, of which José Antonio Fernández, from the village of Miller, Juan Sáez, who was mayor of the neighbouring municipality of Nerpio, and Manuel Romero, secretary of the same municipality. They were all killed or arrested by the Civil Guard.

Another of the resistors was Pablo, that of Motril, although it was actually called Manuel Pérez Rubiño, who focused his activity until 1952 on the terms of Cazorla, Quesada and Pozo Alcón. Other names that have remained in the collective memory are those of "Fernandillo" or the "Red Terrinches," which now become known thanks to the latest historical investigations and the attempt to recover the historical memory of the period immediately after the Civil War.