Festivals and traditions

Jaén Paraíso Interior

Traditions in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park

In the mountain communities, there are distinct cultural elements alongside those brought by residents who emigrated and later returned, as well as new inhabitants who have arrived with their own perspectives. New technologies and greater mobility are breaking down the physical and psychological barriers that the population of these mountains once faced.

When approaching the population of the mountains that make up the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park, we must consider the traditional isolation this area of the province has experienced due to a lack of communication and other infrastructure.

Many villages did not have electricity or running water until the 1980s, and in general, the population has become accustomed to the difficulties of traveling between the different villages in the mountains and to the administrative centers of the province. On the other hand, we cannot lose sight of the fact that the territory of the current park did not belong to the province of Jaén until the creation of the current provincial division, and that, of the three districts, the Segura district has a special connection with the bordering areas of Castilla-La Mancha, with which it shares cultural expressions and many elements of its dialect.

IN JAÉN, PLAYING WITH FIRE WON’T GET YOU BURNED

The light and warmth of fire take centre stage at the Lumbres de San Antón (St Anthony’s Bonfires), the most magical night in the province. Declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest, it is held on the night of 16 to 17 January. Its origins date back to the 13th century, when the people of Jaén lit large bonfires, traditionally made from pruning waste and olive wood, in different parts of the province. The bonfires are an ancestral rite closely linked to the olive-growing cycle and the protection of animals.

On top of each bonfire sits a rag doll, or pelele, stuffed with straw, sawdust and firecrackers, which explodes when the flames reach it. Around the fire, locals sing and dance melechones, traditional folk songs with mischievous or everyday lyrics. It is also customary to enjoy traditional food on this night, such as chorizo, hearty stews and migas with all the trimmings.

Alongside this ancestral festival, the San Antón Race is held, one of the province’s most important sporting events. Every year since 1984, torches have lit the way for brave runners of all ages from all over Spain. The athletes compete on a night-time circuit through the city’s main streets, while hundreds of locals cheer them on along the entire route, carrying torches and eating popcorn.

In Albanchez de Mágina, the Rosario de los Hachones is held in honour of St Francis of Paola. On the night of 3 May, residents carry large handmade torches (hachones) made of esparto grass and coated with pitch or resin, so that they burn strongly without being blown out by the wind. These torches are prepared in advance on 25 April, St Mark’s Day.

Locals follow a route along which they light several strategically placed bonfires, known as luminarias. Although today it is called a Rosario (Rosary), it is an ancient tradition that blends popular and religious elements.

Mancha Real hosts Andalusia’s only fallas, declared a Festival of Andalusian Tourist Interest. The town has a long tradition of woodworking and furniture-making. The tradition was started by local carpenters in 1983 to honour St Joseph, the patron saint of their guild. On 19 March, a falla several metres high, made of papier-mâché or wood, is set up, depicting a satirical or ironic scene about the year’s events. The falla is then burnt to symbolise the end of one cycle and the start of new challenges and hopes.

CENTURIES-OLD FESTIVALS

The province of Jaén holds numerous historical re-enactments that celebrate its heritage. In Sierra Mágina, the highlight is the Moors and Christians festival, which recalls the warfare and conflicts of the Reconquista in three towns, in honour of their patron saints. In Campillo de Arenas, the Virgen de la Cabeza is carried in procession; in Carchelejo, the Virgen del Rosario; and in Bélmez de la Moraleda, the Señor de la Vida. For a few days, these towns return to their medieval frontier past, with streets full of parades, period costumes, music and performances.

The main event begins when the patron saint’s image sets out in procession. The image is guarded by the Christians, but at certain strategic points the procession is ambushed and the Moorish side seizes it. The image is held in a symbolic castle while negotiations in verse and attempts at bribery take place. Finally, after a symbolic battle, the Christian troops win and recover their town’s image.

Tradition and the present come together in the Historical Re-enactment of Arbuniel, a hamlet belonging to Cambil, which takes visitors through the different periods of the village’s history. In August, locals stage street parades and performances to bring to life its historical heritage and the various civilisations that settled there.

The Ibero-Roman Festival of Cástulo recreates the time of the Second Punic War and the past of Linares and the Cástulo Archaeological Site. On the third weekend of May, Iberians, Carthaginians and Romans once again bring to life one of the most important periods of Antiquity on the Iberian Peninsula, with theatrical performances, parades, Roman circus shows and gladiator fights.

Change and tradition

However, the changes we have witnessed in recent years in communication and technology mean that we are talking about a population like any other in the country. We cannot resort to stereotypical stereotypes to define the inhabitants of these regions as "...astute and wary, victims of a hostile environment that forced them to sharpen their senses and exercise extreme caution." These words of Genaro Navarro López, published in the 1960s, certainly lose all relevance if we take a look around any of our villages.

Although, certainly, some remnants of that tradition of isolation in which most of these mountain ranges have lived remain in the collective memory. In most places, it was common for almost everyone to be linked by family ties due to the low population mobility. Therefore, it was common to use terms like "brother" or "uncle" to refer to distant relatives, a practice still used by older people, especially in villages. Nicknames were also very common and passed down from generation to generation, many of which are still used today. Currently, only about 14,000 people live within the protected area, although the total population of the municipalities affected by the protected area reaches 80,000 inhabitants. In the mountain society, there are distinct cultural elements alongside others brought by inhabitants who emigrated and later returned, as well as new inhabitants who have arrived with their own perspectives. New technologies and greater mobility are breaking down the physical and psychological barriers that the population of these mountains once faced.

The dances

In many municipalities within the Park, regional dance groups maintain their traditions, keeping alive the folklore of each region. The folklore of the mountains was closely linked to events in daily life, such as All Souls' Day, Saint Anthony's Day, weddings, Carnival, and the pig slaughter. However, one theme that is always present is courtship and all the related topics of courtship, always with a touch of playful wit and double entendres.

Throughout the natural park, we can distinguish several types of dances, most notably jotas, seguidillas, malagueñas, and fandangos. Examples include the malagueñas of Siles, the jota of Benatae, the dance of the Christs in Beas, the seguidilla in Segura de la Sierra, the malagueñas of Puerta de Segura, the fandango of Chirichipe, the jota of Remeneo, the bolero of Villacarrillo, and the fandango robao of Iruela and Cazorla.

The cycle of celebrations

All the villages have traditional celebrations whose origins date back centuries, such as the luminarias, bonfires around which neighbors sing and share food with a glass of cuerva, a typical drink of these mountains. They are still celebrated on Saint Lucy's Day, Saint Anthony's Day, and Candlemas.

At Christmas, the living nativity scene in Fontanar, a village near Pozo Alcón, is a must-see. Some 250 actors reenact the birth of Jesus. In Huesa, a festival is held in honor of Saint Sylvester, during which the positions of captain, standard-bearer, and guinche are drawn by lot. These individuals must accompany the saint in his procession, dressed in 18th-century attire. In February, on the feast day of Saint Blaise, a pilgrimage takes place in some places like Villanueva del Arzobispo, while in others, like Puerta de Segura, thousands of wheelbarrows full of firecrackers are set off. During Holy Week, there are processions in all the towns, although Segura de la Sierra and Villacarrillo undoubtedly stand out for their reenactments of the Passion and Death of Jesus. In Segura de la Sierra, almost all the residents participate, creating the Stations of the Cross and making use of the most beautiful spots in the town. During the month of May, many altars with crosses are decorated in towns and villages, reflecting devotion to the cross and Mary. Altars are improvised, and the cross is adorned with sheets, flowers, and aromatic plants. In May, the "caracolada" (snail festival) is also held in Cazorla in honor of Saint Isicius. It consists of placing small oil lamps made from snail shells along the saint's procession route. For Corpus Christi, it is customary in many towns to create carpets that cover the ground with various materials. Villacarrillo is particularly noteworthy for its large carpets of damp sawdust or sand depicting traditional symbols of the Eucharist. Throughout the year, numerous pilgrimages take place, most notably those to the sanctuaries of Tiscar and Fuensanta, although others, such as those to the Virgin of Campo, Saint Quiteria, and Saint Isidore, are also highly revered. Running of the heifers is a common event in almost every town, with Iznatoraf and Santiago de la Espada being particularly prominent. Arroyo del Ojanco and Beas de Segura celebrate San Marcos with the release of a large number of cattle through the town's streets.

The new events

The cultural scene is rounded out by the numerous festivals held throughout the summer and autumn, offering something for everyone. Highlights include the FIA-Segura de la Sierra International Air Festival, Bluescazorla, the Cazorla Theatre Festival, and the Música en Segura Festival, as well as several medieval markets and other cultural activities.

As a point of interest, we can mention the soapbox derby held annually in Villanueva del Arzobispo during its festivities. It is the only activity of its kind in the municipalities that make up the natural park.

Bolos serranos, an indigenous sport

In terms of sports, we cannot overlook bolos serranos, a traditional game played in these mountains since the late Middle Ages. It is the only native sport of Andalusia and is currently gaining more and more fans. Bowling clubs have been formed in many towns within the Park to promote and raise awareness of the sport.

Competitions are usually held during town festivals, along with others organized by the clubs themselves, such as the 24-Hour Bowling Tournament in Beas de Segura. Additionally, the Provincial Council Cup of Serranos Bowling is organized every year, which is helping to consolidate the game in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park. The Andalusian Bowling Federation organizes a full sporting calendar each year, including around twenty competitions.

Bowling combines strength and aim, as the player must knock down wooden pieces called "mingos" with a ball. There are two modalities: high mountain and valley. Its presence is uneven throughout the natural park, and the valley version is now largely confined to the Segura Valley. Bowling is not only a sport but also a chance to spend quality time with friends, family, or neighbors from other towns who come to play. Visitors to a bowling game will never have trouble joining in and learning more about this local sport.

In the following links, you can see more details about how this sport is played, its rules, and even some videos of championships: www.bolosserranos.es. The Andalusian Bowling Federation also has a website, www.boloandaluz.org, where you can find federation-level information.