Despegue del Almadén
The track runs on the northwest face of Mount Bucentaina. When we have been walking for about 20 minutes we will reach the source of the Noguerón, from which there is plenty of water. In this place, the path PR-A 175 is separated by a path to the left. We're still on the main road.
At first we will see the mountains and olive groves around Siles, and then enter the forest. It is one of the best pineapples of carrasco pine the Natural Park. Just as the village of Puentehonda appears before us, we see on the left, on the same road, two gigantic and venerable specimens of carrasco pine, which are included in the Inventory of Singular Trees of Andalusia with the names of Pino de los Barrilos de Puentehonda and Pino del Cerro Bucentaina and respectively. The latter is 32 m high and 4.5 m in diameter at its base.
We will also find in our way an indication to go up a narrow and steep path to the remains of the castle of Puentehonda, whose ruins, corresponding to two towers, are half hidden in the thickness of the forest.
The village of Puentehonda, at the foot of the Peñalta, has a small recreational area with a fountain in which it is worth resting. The way back and forth, doing so quietly, will take about four hours.
This route, of just under 5 km, runs along a narrow forest track that we recommend to walk. Its main attraction is the carrasco pine forest that crosses, under which grows a closed forest of oak, madroños and doves. The first kilometer is quite steep, but the rest is barely at a level. To reach the village of Puentehonda it is enough to follow the track, without taking any detour, until it ends up in another of greater width. The other side of the village is the village.
Itinerary
The itinerary, which runs along 18 km (every thousand metres) by means of identification. It begins at the Félix lookout, located at the foot of the road of the Tranco A-319, continuing for it towards Arroyo Frio until the intersection with the track leading to the campsiteLlanos de Aranceand that goes along, first, the right bank of the Guadalquivir River and then the tail of the Tranco reservoir. The first half of the route, along the asphalt road, passes through an interesting forest of coniferous: black pines and carrasco, complaints, oaks..., mixed with alffas, strawberries and willows of the river of Guadalquivir, and includes the required visit to the Park of Fauna SilvestreAlmond Necklace. Large mammals, such as deer, mountain goats, muflons and wos, live in semi-freedom this part of the Natural Park
From kilometer 8, past the bridge of the Golondrinas over the Guadalquivir, we travel through a forest track that crosses streams under the refreshing shade of chopos, strawberries and willows, with intrusions of Mediterranean forest, where it will be nothing difficult to meet with deer, boars, squirrels, etc.
We cannot talk about the Natural Park Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas without the extraordinary figure of Professor Felix Rodríguez de la Fuente coming to our attention. Since 2001, the year when this tour was arranged under the advice of the well-known naturalist and writer Joaquín Araujo, the Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente Route has become a reference to reflect the best moments in the TV series "Man and Earth." In 2011, thirty years after the death of Professor Rodríguez de la Fuente in an unfortunate accident, the RFRF has been renewed with new interpretative panels and pointed elements to be visited, without losing detail, in total symbiosis with nature.
The Guadalquivir made this canyon narrow and deep, leaving some streams - like that of Linarej- hanging on the heights. When this stream is at the throat it forms the spectacular Cascade of Linarejos, which after standing in some pozas joins the Guadalquivir to descend to the valley.
The path is 1.6 km and on its circular route it surrounds the "Peñón del Lanchón" to return to the road in a pleasant walk of about 45 minutes.
In the final part of the road - just before returning to the asphalt - you reach a pine-resinero or black forest (Pinus pinaster) that was used to obtain the resin with which the water used to be made. In these trees you will see the furrows that the resineros opened to allow the exit of this sap.
We suggest:
The site known as Cerrada del Utroo-Linarejos is an amazing natural work sculpted by the Guadalquivir in the limestone that surrounds it. The path is on foot, and it will allow you to appreciate the sharp rocks and objades created by water over hundreds of thousands of years. It is a charming walk where the labiérnago, the cornicabra, and the willow accompany you to one of the most photographed places in the Park: the "horse tail" or Cascada de Linarejos.
We deviate from the road, in order to see, upstream, a spectacular leap of water, with a large poza in its base, whose waters look an emerald green by the reflection of the lush vegetation surrounding it. Let us take our way back, to reach a small hill, with a very particular silhouette. It is the Paso del Aguartedo, place of impressive views towards the countryside.
The path is conditioned and low, with a serpentating route, on a steep and rocky slope. On our left we found a striking oquity - an ashtray - where the shepherds used to keep their cattle. Below we reach a small lookout, where the path is fork. We follow the one on the right, until we get back to the channel to contemplate the majestic cascade of the Osera, perhaps one of the highest and beautiful waterfalls of Andalusia.
We continue along the path marked, by the narrow and steep ravine, enjoying the multiple pozas of the channel, to a walkway that crosses the river and back the path to the Odera lookout. If at this point we continue along the road that goes parallel to the channel, we will reach the explanade of La Osera, place where the vehicles are left when it is accessed from Mogón.
For these wonderful places it is very easy to observe the flight of the leonate vulture. The real eagle is also present and, if we look well, we can even see the little perdicular eagle.
We suggest:
The most recommended option is to make the path down. From the reservoir of Aguascebas, the walk is 4.5 km, from the km 18.8 of the road JH-7155 (Transversal de las Villas). At this point, to our left are the houses of the reservoir and, right behind it, we can observe an old quarry, where the path starts.
This path will allow you to discover one of the most charming environments in the Las Villas mountains. It runs along the natural channel of the river Aguascebas Chico, where we will discover unusual and unexpected corners. Following him, on our right, we found fenced land of ancient crops and a small cortijo half-melting. This place is known as "Las Ramblillas." In the deep valley you can see the river Aguascebas Chico.
Once the asphalt ramp is over, the most painful stretch of the road, we reach an excellent lookout that allows us to enjoy a good view of the reservoir and the Valentine Barrio. A little later the track runs parallel to the river. When it wanders the way, without crossing, we follow the shore to the corners full of charm that we will meet. Later we will be forced to leave the shore to access a lane. We continue upstream, until we reach the Dike Cascade, very easy to distinguish because in its crown it has stone walls. A little lower, hidden in the bush, a beautiful leap of water is hidden that we must not miss.
Overcoming the Cascade of the Dique, part of a path that, at first, crosses the channel twice and takes us to the head of the river. Leaving the bottom of the ravine for a long time, and then returning to it, when the road ends on a forest track, we reach the bottom of the Cerrada de Navas, where the Guazalanco offers one of its most beautiful pictures.
However, to get to this point from above and to make the way down the stream, you can make an interesting route from the Nature Hall and Botanical Garden of El Hornico: Route of Guazalamanco on the Prays of Arredondo. This circular itinerary is signposted and has 13.2 (circular) length. If two vehicles are available and leaving one on the Cuesta del Cement, we reduce the route to 8.8 km and, in addition, we avoid the most flat and monotonous part of the route, the Dehesa del Rincón.
The most direct access to the Guazalamanco River is by the Dehesa del Rincón. From Pozo Alcón you have to take the A-326, up the Avenida de la Bolera, direction to Castril. By passing the campsite de la Bolera and the Km. 7, we take a detour that comes to our left and that borders the Forest House of la Bolera (it indicates to the Hornico). On an unasphalted road, always following the main road, 6,7 km from its start a fork to the left, in a slope, is left, which is asphalted (Cuesta del Cement). Although with an apron we can reach the Pasada de Guazalamanco, by a forest track parallel to the channel, the most recommended option is to leave the vehicle at the foot of the hill and take a small walk to the Cascade del Dique (round and round 2.5 km), and enjoy the many corners that this beautiful and wild mountain stream offers us.
Guazalamanco is a mountain channel of permanent and turbulent waters, loaded with oxygen and gelid glass. Each of its corners invites us to recreate our senses, to remain still, in silence, as if we wanted to merge with nature and return to our origins. If you forget the camera in the car, when you discover the stream you will return to your steps to restart the road, now with the machine ready.
Because until you're with him you're not aware of his proportions. Embrace and surround it is impossible if 4 or 5 people do not join, as its perimeter reaches 5.40 meters. For its dimensions it is part of the Project "Trees: Legends vivables," a beautiful work of cataloging unique trees of the Iberian Peninsula.
This wonderful pine tree has survived the intense forest activity that developed on these lands for several centuries. Many of his companions, who are no longer present, were part of the ships that were built for the Spanish Navy between the 16th and 18th centuries. It was the time when the Serra de Segura saw was the Maritime Province. But the Galapan is still with us to show you its splendor.
We suggest...
From Santiago de la Espada you have to follow the road A-317 towards La Matea, and through this town continue to the village of Don Domingo. Once there you have to take a forest track in perfect condition, marked for hiking as GR 144. This track is directed towards Rambla Seca and the fields of Hernán Perea. As you pass a bridge you will find a first crossing where, on the right, the route to the Pino Galapán is indicated. 2.6 km from this crossing you will find it in the right margin of the road.
You have before you a magnificent example of larix pine, which here is called the Salgareño pine (Pinus nigra salzmanii), a living treasure of this territory that with its more than 400 years of age and 39 m of height is listed as one of the giants of the Spanish forests. It is the most emblematic tree in the Segura saw, and although it does not seem much to you from the forest track, you have to go down the path and get to its base to understand what is special.
From the road you will find a road that goes down to the reservoir dam, where the vision is even more spectacular, with the impressive Pico Morrión standing out at the bottom.
This area of the Park represents better than any of the world of mountain villages: landscape, culture, gastronomy, odors, colors, life forms that when we come from the city we find unreal; as if it were not possible to live integrated into nature, living from the resources it provides but without damaging it.
Around the reservoir there are villages held in the time that each of them offers you different delicacies: the bread and the cakes of Tobos made in a historic wood oven, or the magnificent Vites spirit with which to make delicious artisanal liquors such as the pachan or the mistela.
We suggest...
This reservoir is located halfway between the town of Santiago de la Espada and the village of the Miller Boards, on the local road JF-7038, at the height of the village of Morrión.
The vegetation-covered slopes and stone walls are reflected in the blue green waters of this tiny reservoir, which looks more like a natural lake of high mountain than a human construction. In it the Zumeta River retains its waters for an instant creating a peaceful and serene place, ideal for a moment of tranquility.
Its main attractions are the large forests of pine laricio, the head of the valley of the river Madera and some small villages.
Below we tell you how to make the route and suggest some possibilities:
Km 2.8.To the right part of the road to the small and hidden village of Moralejos, which is reached in a few minutes. We advise you to visit her, because she has a very harmonious environment and is well preserved.
Km 6.The Royos. From this tiny village you can see beautiful views of the header of the Trujala valley. Km 8.3. Important cross with many indications. We turn right, towards Rio Madera, on the JF-7016 road. To the left we would go to Las Azebeas and Siles. Here is a significant change in the plant environment, as we have entered the area of the pine pine larice.
Km 8.7.On the left, a forest track opens that gives access to Navalespino, the Collado de Góntar and the abandoned village of Prado de Juan Ruiz, among other areas of high quality landscape.
Km 9.5.Fountain and forest house of Navalhora. The pinar acquires all its splendor. Three hundred meters further, take the long forest track from Navalhora to El Robledo to the right, for which we recommend walking.
Km 10.1.At this crossing, our route follows to the left, towards Rio Madera, on the JF-7038 road. From here we go down and we'll see large copies of complaints and some twins. Km 12.3. Start a forest track to the left, to the counter. It gives access, without taking any detour, to the far-off villages of La Tobilla and Prado Espinosillo.
Km 13.5.Los Negros' controlled camp area. It has a fountain and tables, and is accessible for people with reduced mobility. An excellent place to rest under large larity pines. From here, during the 4.3 km that separate us from the village of Arroyo Canales, we recommend to walk quietly next to gardens and small cortijos, always close to the river Madera and in the middle of one of the best pine lario forests in Spain.
Km 17.8.The village of Arroyo Canales, sometimes given the name of the village of Rio Madera, is a strategic point throughout the area. At this very marked crossing, we turn right on the JF-7039 road. From here on the route rises and the forest is less lush, but you gain splendid views. We will find several forest tracks signposted to El Jaral, La Huelga de la Vigas and the Collado de Los Asperones. All of them are interned in magnificent places.
Km 22.4.Very marked cross where we turn right, on the JF-7016 road. Two hundred meters later, we ignored the left crossing towards the Hornos de Segura and followed the front. From here on the plain route and the environment becomes more lush.
Km 23.7.We arrived at the location of El Campillo, where there is an old forest house. To the left, the asphalted forest track goes up to El Yelmo. Both on the road and at the summit, the views are extraordinary.
Km 32.5.We found again the crossing through which we went down to Rio Madera. From here on, we return to Segura de la Sierra on the same route we brought.
PRACTICAL PARTICULARS
The route is 42 km, and it starts and ends in Segura de la Sierra. The beginning from which we count the kilometers is at the exit of Segura de la Sierra on the road JV-7032, exactly at the point where the road to the castle comes right.
This route, which is part of the small and beautiful village of Segura de la Sierra, leads along small mountain roads to the valley of Rio Madera, ascends to the vicinity of the Yelmo and returns to the starting point.