Fuenmaandor, Navaparis, altos de Mágina (C3)
Itinerary
The itinerary, which runs along 18 km (every thousand metres) by means of identification. It begins at the Félix lookout, located at the foot of the road of the Tranco A-319, continuing for it towards Arroyo Frio until the intersection with the track leading to the campsiteLlanos de Aranceand that goes along, first, the right bank of the Guadalquivir River and then the tail of the Tranco reservoir. The first half of the route, along the asphalt road, passes through an interesting forest of coniferous: black pines and carrasco, complaints, oaks..., mixed with alffas, strawberries and willows of the river of Guadalquivir, and includes the required visit to the Park of Fauna SilvestreAlmond Necklace. Large mammals, such as deer, mountain goats, muflons and wos, live in semi-freedom this part of the Natural Park
From kilometer 8, past the bridge of the Golondrinas over the Guadalquivir, we travel through a forest track that crosses streams under the refreshing shade of chopos, strawberries and willows, with intrusions of Mediterranean forest, where it will be nothing difficult to meet with deer, boars, squirrels, etc.
We cannot talk about the Natural Park Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas without the extraordinary figure of Professor Felix Rodríguez de la Fuente coming to our attention. Since 2001, the year when this tour was arranged under the advice of the well-known naturalist and writer Joaquín Araujo, the Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente Route has become a reference to reflect the best moments in the TV series "Man and Earth." In 2011, thirty years after the death of Professor Rodríguez de la Fuente in an unfortunate accident, the RFRF has been renewed with new interpretative panels and pointed elements to be visited, without losing detail, in total symbiosis with nature.
Because until you're with him you're not aware of his proportions. Embrace and surround it is impossible if 4 or 5 people do not join, as its perimeter reaches 5.40 meters. For its dimensions it is part of the Project "Trees: Legends vivables," a beautiful work of cataloging unique trees of the Iberian Peninsula.
This wonderful pine tree has survived the intense forest activity that developed on these lands for several centuries. Many of his companions, who are no longer present, were part of the ships that were built for the Spanish Navy between the 16th and 18th centuries. It was the time when the Serra de Segura saw was the Maritime Province. But the Galapan is still with us to show you its splendor.
We suggest...
From Santiago de la Espada you have to follow the road A-317 towards La Matea, and through this town continue to the village of Don Domingo. Once there you have to take a forest track in perfect condition, marked for hiking as GR 144. This track is directed towards Rambla Seca and the fields of Hernán Perea. As you pass a bridge you will find a first crossing where, on the right, the route to the Pino Galapán is indicated. 2.6 km from this crossing you will find it in the right margin of the road.
You have before you a magnificent example of larix pine, which here is called the Salgareño pine (Pinus nigra salzmanii), a living treasure of this territory that with its more than 400 years of age and 39 m of height is listed as one of the giants of the Spanish forests. It is the most emblematic tree in the Segura saw, and although it does not seem much to you from the forest track, you have to go down the path and get to its base to understand what is special.
Its main attractions are the large forests of pine laricio, the head of the valley of the river Madera and some small villages.
Below we tell you how to make the route and suggest some possibilities:
Km 2.8.To the right part of the road to the small and hidden village of Moralejos, which is reached in a few minutes. We advise you to visit her, because she has a very harmonious environment and is well preserved.
Km 6.The Royos. From this tiny village you can see beautiful views of the header of the Trujala valley. Km 8.3. Important cross with many indications. We turn right, towards Rio Madera, on the JF-7016 road. To the left we would go to Las Azebeas and Siles. Here is a significant change in the plant environment, as we have entered the area of the pine pine larice.
Km 8.7.On the left, a forest track opens that gives access to Navalespino, the Collado de Góntar and the abandoned village of Prado de Juan Ruiz, among other areas of high quality landscape.
Km 9.5.Fountain and forest house of Navalhora. The pinar acquires all its splendor. Three hundred meters further, take the long forest track from Navalhora to El Robledo to the right, for which we recommend walking.
Km 10.1.At this crossing, our route follows to the left, towards Rio Madera, on the JF-7038 road. From here we go down and we'll see large copies of complaints and some twins. Km 12.3. Start a forest track to the left, to the counter. It gives access, without taking any detour, to the far-off villages of La Tobilla and Prado Espinosillo.
Km 13.5.Los Negros' controlled camp area. It has a fountain and tables, and is accessible for people with reduced mobility. An excellent place to rest under large larity pines. From here, during the 4.3 km that separate us from the village of Arroyo Canales, we recommend to walk quietly next to gardens and small cortijos, always close to the river Madera and in the middle of one of the best pine lario forests in Spain.
Km 17.8.The village of Arroyo Canales, sometimes given the name of the village of Rio Madera, is a strategic point throughout the area. At this very marked crossing, we turn right on the JF-7039 road. From here on the route rises and the forest is less lush, but you gain splendid views. We will find several forest tracks signposted to El Jaral, La Huelga de la Vigas and the Collado de Los Asperones. All of them are interned in magnificent places.
Km 22.4.Very marked cross where we turn right, on the JF-7016 road. Two hundred meters later, we ignored the left crossing towards the Hornos de Segura and followed the front. From here on the plain route and the environment becomes more lush.
Km 23.7.We arrived at the location of El Campillo, where there is an old forest house. To the left, the asphalted forest track goes up to El Yelmo. Both on the road and at the summit, the views are extraordinary.
Km 32.5.We found again the crossing through which we went down to Rio Madera. From here on, we return to Segura de la Sierra on the same route we brought.
PRACTICAL PARTICULARS
The route is 42 km, and it starts and ends in Segura de la Sierra. The beginning from which we count the kilometers is at the exit of Segura de la Sierra on the road JV-7032, exactly at the point where the road to the castle comes right.
This route, which is part of the small and beautiful village of Segura de la Sierra, leads along small mountain roads to the valley of Rio Madera, ascends to the vicinity of the Yelmo and returns to the starting point.
We will walk through a varied landscape of low and half mountain, between olive groves and masses of carrasco and black pine with abundant Mediterranean forest, spilled by beautiful walnuts, complaints and pineapples. We can also see well-preserved river vegetation.
Between the Dehesa del Oso and Villarrodrigo there are long sections from which we will enjoy a wide range of views of all theNatural Park. In the vicinity of Villarrodrigo you can see the last eastern foothills of Sierra Morena and the transition landscape formed by dehesas.
The corvids, such as the lard and the corneas, as well as the boar, are abundant. In the area of the Cambrón there is an interesting colony of leonate vulture.
The Path of Siles to Villarrodrigo runs almost entirely through a forest track that unites these two localities, crossing the valleys of the Guadalimar and its tributary the Onsares.
The ruins of the castle are impressive because of its elevated situation and the remains of houses and rooms made in tapial that are around it. From above you can observe much of the valley and see, right in front, the castle of Segura and a little below the Arab towers of Santa Catalina and Orcera. We suggest that you walk through the forest track that links this village with that of El Tobazo, by forest track with very little level marked for hiking like GR-146.
It is one of the most charming villages for its location, very close to the remains of the small castle of Espinareda, of which it is named. narrow streets, white walls and small roofs extended on the hillside. A shaded ravine makes it a lookout over the rest of the valley.
From here, with a little patience and luck, we can take advantage of the nearby feeding station for scavenging birds to enjoy the majestic flight of the griffon vulture, the most numerous of our large birds of prey. It may delight us by gliding just a few metres above the treetops of the surrounding pine forest. Other birds of prey can also be observed from here, including common buzzards and booted eagles.
From here, we continue along the same road until reaching Empalme del Valle, the point where this route connects with the main route when starting from the village of Arroyo Frío. We then turn right towards Vadillo-Castril. At this former timber settlement on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, we can make a second stop. Either by walking along the riverbanks through the village or by spending a little more time completing the circular Cerrada del Utrero trail on foot, which is also of ornithological interest, we can observe a wide variety of riverside bird species. These include the white-throated dipper, a reliable indicator of good water quality; the grey wagtail, moving among the rocks emerging from the water; Cetti’s warblers; and, in spring, the colourful golden oriole, among others.
Continuing onwards, after crossing the Iron Bridge beside the Cerrada del Utrero trail, we reach a fork where we turn left and climb towards Las Navas. We leave behind the Lanchales de Linarejos, a beautiful karst landscape where, with a little patience, it is possible to observe the agile Iberian ibex. By remaining quiet and carefully examining the trunks of the surrounding trees, we may also see several small but beautiful woodland bird species, such as Eurasian nuthatches, short-toed treecreepers, coal tits and long-tailed tits. We continue to the Los Collados forest house, where the unpaved forest track begins. This track takes us along the Cuesta del Bazar to Nava del Espino.
A little further uphill, on our right, we find the first viewpoint overlooking Los Poyos de la Mesa. Griffon vultures are frequently seen flying here, and with luck we may also observe golden eagles, booted eagles and short-toed snake eagles. The latter are present during spring and summer, after returning to these mountains from their wintering grounds in Africa.
We continue climbing through beautiful forests of maritime pine, holm oak and a number of old Portuguese oaks. The undergrowth consists of rosemary, marjoram, turpentine trees and rockroses. As we ascend the Cuesta del Bazar, the maritime pines gradually give way to majestic European black pines. We are now in the Oro-Mediterranean vegetation zone, where these slender pine trees grow alongside centuries-old Portuguese oaks, hawthorns, barberries and prickly cushion plants.
We have reached the beginning of Nava del Espino, a beautiful high plateau covered with dense European black pine forests and high-mountain grasslands. It is surrounded by striking peaks such as Cabeza del Tejo and Cerro de Pedro Cerrillo, where fallow deer can often be seen running swiftly across the landscape, grazing or resting beneath the shade of a pine tree.
We continue along the forest track, passing the Fuente de la Garganta recreational area, until reaching La Esperilla, where the second viewpoint dedicated to Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente is located. This viewpoint overlooks Nava de San Pedro and Torcales del Lobo. It is well worth spending some time here and using binoculars to scan this magnificent landscape in search of a great spotted woodpecker, green woodpecker or carrion crow hidden among the scrub or the interwoven branches of the replanted poplar groves. Looking towards the sky, it is not unusual to see the silhouette of a golden eagle, peregrine falcon, griffon vulture, raven or one of the bearded vultures released as part of the species reintroduction programme. The Bearded Vulture Captive Breeding Centre is now located beside the former Nava de San Pedro Game Park. This ambitious project is producing successful results, as this threatened species has once again returned to the skies above these mountains.
We continue along the route and, after passing through the cutting, reach a viewpoint overlooking Vado de las Carretas. On days with good visibility, it is possible to see as far as Sierra Nevada National Park. A little further uphill, beside the former farmsteads of Poyo Manquillo, a short path on our left leads to the third viewpoint. It overlooks a beautiful holm oak woodland growing over limestone slabs, as well as the impressive cliffs of Torcales del Lobo and, further away, Cerro de las Cabañas, Puerto Pinillo and Torcal de Linares.
We return to our vehicle and, after travelling approximately two kilometres, reach the fourth viewpoint in the area known as Estrecho de los Perales. Here, beautiful and unusual geological formations surround the crystal-clear waters of the Valdetrillos Stream. Agile mouflons and male Iberian ibex can often be seen climbing the vertical rock walls, while golden eagles, griffon vultures and booted eagles may be observed flying majestically overhead. Flocks of unusual birds with crossed bills may also be seen. These are crossbills, remarkably adapted to feeding in pine forests and using their distinctive bills to extract seeds from pine cones. Another small bird that may be observed here is the citril finch.
We continue along the forest track, passing the former Fuente Acero forest house. One kilometre further on, we reach beautiful and impressive limestone cliffs, dominated by the peaks of Loma del Caballo de Acero, Alto de la Cabrilla and Navalasno. These were the last places where the bearded vulture nested before disappearing from the area in 1986–1987.
Continuing along the forest track and passing Collado de Fuente Bermejo, we arrive at Collado de la Zarca. On our left stands an impressive European black pine more than 300 years old. From here, there are beautiful panoramic views over the Guadalentín Ravine and the Natural Park’s great limestone formations, including Navalasno, Poyos de la Carilarga and La Cabrilla. At the end of the route, we reach the area known as Ramblaseca, the gateway to the renowned Campos de Hernán Perea. This high plateau has sparse vegetation because of the harsh environmental conditions and, above all, the pressure of livestock grazing. An endless variety of small birds can be seen in these open uplands, taking advantage of livestock drinking troughs as sources of water. These include chaffinches, crossbills, mistle thrushes, common rock thrushes and ring ouzels, with the latter two being more frequent in winter. Northern goshawks and Eurasian sparrowhawks may also be seen waiting for an opportunity to catch one of the birds that lowers its guard while drinking.
All that remains is to return along the same route to the Puente de las Herrerías junction. Here, we can either return along the same route used on the outward journey or take the road leading to the source of the Guadalquivir River and then continue to El Chorro. There, we can enjoy views of a griffon vulture colony situated on vertical cliffs of imposing beauty. Griffon vultures, red-billed choughs and crag martins can be observed, as well as Egyptian vultures and Alpine swifts during the breeding season. Please note that this alternative route considerably increases both the duration and distance of the journey, so it is advisable to complete it on a separate day.
It begins in Cazorla, a village of a unique beauty catalogued as an artistic historical ensemble that is also the head of the Sierra de Cazorla region. We take direction to the Natural Park on the A-319 road, through the village of La Iruela and Burunchel, just before entering its limits, we continue on the winding mountain road, ascending to reach the Port of the Palomas and the Paso del Aire, at this point we can take advantage to make the first stop contemplating the difference of landscape between the slope facing the Guadalquivir Valley and the direction to the agricultural countryside covered by the olive mantle that covers these lands.
The Recreative Area Junta de los Arroyos or also known as Fuente de la Almoteja is located about 2.5 km from Siles, and is accessed by the road past the Peña del Olivar is taken the forest track that reaches the Junta de los Arroyos, where the Arroyo de la Canalica and the Arroyo de los Tejos join. But first the road passes by the Fountain of La Almoteja, where is the area with tables and stone seats where you can enjoy a day of field. It also has a large game area and a barbecues area that can be used within the dates that the Board allows to light fires. (The allowed dates will be published in our news section.)
Information and Observations
The 25 m that separate the forest track from the lookout is not suitable for people with disabilities.
The view of the rayuela is located at the foot of the Summit of the Puntal de la Rayuela from where you can see magnificent views of Siles next to the Embalse, as well as having privileged views of all the Sierra de Segura.
Access to the lookout is done through a forest track that will leave us just 25 m from the lookout's shed.