The tour begins in Mancha Real and ends in the neighboring town of Torres; therefore a route that makes it easier to leave a car in each village to organize the return after the route. If you are going to complete the tour you will need water, some food to replenish strength and a coat for the high mountain area. In Mancha Real you will only have to ask about the rise to the Almadén peak or the TV repeater - the summit is located a set of telephone and telecommunications antennas. Any neighbor will know you have to go south of the village, next to the Pila Fountain and the municipal pool. There, and on permanent rise by repopulation pineers, the lane rises from the repeater by which you will pedal for 10 km of climb next to the Sierra de la Peña del Eagle. The ascent will take you from the 850 m from Mancha Real to the plains of Bercho and Peña Blanca at 1,400 m. on the Jiennense countryside, where the landscape of mountain plains is appreciated, an area that was described in the Middle Ages, in the Chronicle of the Constable and the Book of the Alphony X Mountain, as... "an important place of major hunting, rich in boars, wolves, deer, bears and a closed vegetation." Two kilometers of plain and we are on the detour for the big climb, the step towards the high mountain: the Almadén summit pedaling by track. It's six and a half miles of ramps and sweat, but the effort is worth it. The summit, if the day is clear, is a privileged viewpoint in Andalusia. To the north is the entire great depression of Guadalquivir, closed by the horizon of Sierra Morena. The east shows you the other peaks of more than 2,000 meters from the Sierra Magina massif. To the south you will see the Sierra Nevada Natural Park horizon in Granada. The drop of the same 6.5 Km. (watch out for curves and speed!) leads us back to the previous crossing. From here a new stretch of 4 Km. by cherry plantations accompanies us to Navaparís, one of the most cuddly sources in the area. 2.5 kilometers more and you are on the local road - asphalt - that will take you in permanent descent (another 2.5 km more) between orchards, cherry fields and small cords to the Torres River, and the town of the same name.

If you prefer to save your promotion to Cabra, you can start your pedal in this town, but the beginning and end of the route will be very disconnected.

From here there are almost 20 km of solitary plains (including the detour and the visit to the Cabra Station), along the secondary road of the altiplano. The tour is very quiet because of the few slopes - except some ramps - and because of the near absence of road traffic. The road has a sufficiently cyclable floor, passing through repopulation pines, olive groves and high cerealist fields. The area consists of a succession of rural areas, with large panoramic to the south, with the permanent image of the summits of the Sierra Nevada Natural Park (province of Granada). To the north the summits of the Natural Park of Sierra Magina rise.

The last stretch is a continuous descent from the pedanean town of Solera to the valley of the Jandulilla River. Solera is a small town with a tiny old town set up around the ruins of a rocky castle that was watching the medieval border. This 15 km stretch ends in Huelma, where you can eat in one of its restaurants, and visit the Vandelvirian Church and its castle, both monuments of the Andalusian Renaissance.

We take a track that goes up the ravine of Estoril and after leaving to our left a huge rocky coat, in which there are curious prehistoric engravings with geometric shapes, we go out to a valley dominated by the castle of Otiñar. There comes a sidewalk that, after entering a narrow throat, rises with a strong slope all over the ravine of the Hoya del Caño. We ignore all the detours to the left and right and pass by the Bishop's source. After a very hard rise in some sections the sidewalk, which passes almost all the time on the right side of the ravine in the sense of ascension, we are located in the Llanos de las Navas, beautiful enclave more than 1500 m high where the forest of lush pine trees with fresh meadows is altered. In winter it is not uncommon to find them snowy. To get here, we'll need about three hours and a lot of physical effort.

The plains are taking a slope to the side of the Pandera, which we have in front of us. In the upper area, on its eastern side, there is a cave disguised by a huge rock that is in front of its entrance. Right on the top of this cave, which serves as a shelter for pastors and mountaineers, a path begins that, through a rocky high mountain terrain will lead us in an hour and a half more to the summits of the Pandera. The sidewalk, which must be located by reference to the cave, is clearly marked at first, as it takes place by opening way between low mountain, but we will have to pay attention to not lose it as we gain height. In days of low visibility or bad weather it is risky to venture to the summit. We will unwind in a vaguada that forms between the Peña del Altar (1809 m) on our left, and the Alta de La Pandera (1870 m) on our right. In addition to this last summit, there are old military facilities. In the Peña del Altar we will see two small constructions: a fire guard house and a small open shelter that is used by the mountaineers for overnight stay. The views from Peña del Altar are spectacular. Its rocky cliffs fall to the Quebrajano. We are at the highest point in the entire South Sierra de Jaén. Much of the province of Jaén and Granada is seen from here. The countryside and the Guadalquivir Valley after the Sierra de Jabalcuz to the north, the peaks of Sierra Magina and the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and the Villas to the east and to the south and west all the bethic mountain system, with the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada mountain range.

The descent will have to be realized by returning to our steps. In winter time, we will have to be careful of the slippery ice-cream snowers that we can find in this area of darkness. There is an alternative that the end of the tour will be made to the road from Los Villares to Valdepeñas, in the area known as Arroyo Frio, which will require coordination with a second vehicle that would be left in this area previously. In any case it is a route that requires practice in the orientation, as to this point would still have to go several kilometres of paths, with the use of cartography, and even the current guidance systems with browser and / or GPS, being recommended. This stretch, in the reverse sense, is explained in more detail in the section of the Sierra Sur, clicking on the path Puerto de la Hoya.

For water, food and accommodation.- Water should be brought, as the nearest water is in Bedmar or Jodar. The accommodation and restaurants of the immediate villages are ideal for finding supply.

How to get there.- The area is 60 kilometres from Jaén capital. From this city you have to go to Bedmar (C-328). After that municipality we turn right through the crossing with the C-325. We arrived shortly after the area. The walls have no loss. They get up in the middle of the hill. There's enough space to park on both sides of the road.

The Andalusian Legate keeps two routes open in this province. The Nazaris and the Caliphate represent unique opportunities to decipher the keys of our past. Both itineraries run in twenty-three Jiennese municipalities. The route of the Caliphate - smaller - crosses the south of the province of Jaén, kissing three cities full of art, culture and history: Alcaudete, Castillo de Locubín and Alcalá la Real. The route of the Nazaris - the most extensive - cuts the province in two, from Sierra Morena to Sierra Mágina, passing through the districts of La Campiña and La Loma. The route crosses twenty municipalities, including the capital of the province. Up to four hundred castles, fortresses, torreons, strong houses and watchmen spatter the way. The monumental heritage, landscapes, popular customs, handicrafts and gastronomy that Jaén today possesses are largely due to that refined civilization that made al-Ándalus a paradise in the middle of the Middle Ages.

Source: Council of Culture and Heritage. Junta de Andalusia.

In the first section we go through three points of interest: the corrijada of Mata Bejid, set of regional-style constructions, the Centre of Visitors of the Natural Park and the bosquet with meringeros area of the Sanctuary of the Fuensanta. In addition in this first part of the route we will find conveniently marked the beginning of the most interesting trails of the massif: Torres Ports and Ascension to the Magic Pico. To the Ctra. A-324 will circulate for 17 km to Huelma. We advise to stop at the Mata Bejid Visitors Center, which in addition to an interesting presentation on the environmental and cultural values of the Natural Park and an audiovisual, has a small shop and meringero area adapted for people with reduced mobility. The Visitors' Centre is open from Thursday to Sunday (check time per season).

You will continue to Huelma, where you can visit two Renaissance monuments that perfectly explain the grandiosity of this population, of these mountains in the 16th century: the Church of the Immaculate Conception, the work of Andrés de Vandelvira, and the castle that watches the people from above.

The second section of the route runs on horseback in the provinces of Granada and Jaén. From Huelma we'll take the Ctra. JA-4204 for four kms. We'll continue for 4 km. More for the Ctra. GR-3100. These are the landscapes of the mountain cereal, increasingly reduced in extension due to its low profitability, but that in times not so far away were the sustenance of the families of the area. The feeling that is perceived in the contemplation of these moors is of remoteness, of isolation, a rural world that is extinguishing.

Attention because you have to turn right on the Ctra. JA-3205, by which you will go down a steep slope towards Arbuniel. To this point you take 35 kms. since you left Cambil. Arbuniel is known for its water spring that feeds the irrigations of the area, through a system of waterfalls that remains active, and that passes through this small population belonging to the municipality of Cambil. The spring is surrounded by a little park, a magnificent place to rest.

From Arbuniel, and in only 8 km. from a road that passes through olive landscapes, we will reach Cambil by the Ctra. JA-3204. Cambil has sufficient restoration services. Do not stop walking through its urban town and be surprised with some Baroque facades, such as the Hospital (18th century).

The starting point of this route is located in the Navas de Tolosa, where the decisive departure that made it possible to open Andalusia to Christianity was won. The route is built through vigorous landscapes in the town of La Carolina and in ancient fortified villas like Baños de la Encina, with its califal-era castle, in historic crossroads of roads like Bailén or Mengibar and in large cities like Andújar, surrounded by the nature of its natural park.

The itinerary is held in the municipalities of the western countryside of Jaén: Arjona, Porcilla, Torredonjimeno, Martos, Torredelcampo, synonyms of border squares, monumental enclosures and industrial villas with oil as protagonist. Then the route goes back to the course of the high Guadalquivir, approaching Linares, to follow the region of La Loma. Here are two unique jewels: Baeza and Ubeda. Two Renaissance sets, unparalleled tops of the history and art of Andalusia.

From here on, the Sierra Magina road through Jódar and its fortress, Jimena and Mancha Real, until entering Jaén, head of Holy Kingdom, crowned by the castle of Santa Catalina and the Cathedral. This route then runs through La Guardia de Jaén, through mountains and ports in the direction of Cambil and Huelma, before entering the province of Granada by Guadahortuna, Píñar and Iznalloz. Only the mountains of Sierra Nevada separate us from the one that was cut from the Nazari sultans. In the meantime, the houses of Deifontes, Albolote, Maracena, as predecessors of the destination of the route, stand out: Granada, which is covered by living traditions in which the indelible heritage of the Andalusian civilization is reflected.

+ INFO

The explanations offered here are very brief, and do not go from being a presentation of this great itinerary, with the aim of locating its different stages as it passes through our province. The most important localities and reference steps are mentioned, but the explanation does not stop to inform about each and every detail of the road, actually formed by different types of roads, landscapes and conditions.
The entire route in the province of Jaén will take a week to ten days of long walks, with the most recommended support of one or two vehicles for the transport of material. Its passage through villages makes its division possible and allows it to make stages of less journey, depending on the interest of the group of hiking people. The GR-7 was marked and beheaded by the Andalusian Mountain Federation and the Tourism, Trade and Sport Council. Years later, some of the milestones have been lost, but by using traditional roads, their realization remains possible.
The path crosses the provincial border Cordoba-Jaén in Pilas de Fuente Soto, reaches Alcalá la Real and continues, in the direction of the village of Santa Ana, coinciding with a Royal Canyon adorned with stone crosses that crosses a moor with the Castle of La Mota on the horizon. It passes through Santa Ana, takes us to Fries and then to Los Rosales, from where it follows a paved road and then to rural roads.
It traverses several ports among which is that of Los Alamillos, goes down to the river Valdearazo and comes up again by seeping the Stone of the Palo, between Camillo de Arenas and Carchelejo, giving view to the Embalse of Quiebrajano. The road continues to ascend to a few plains before the town of Carchelejo, which is accessed by a steep road, by the upper part of the town, by the deposits.
The road leaves the Sierra Sur and leaves Carchelejo following a path that descends in search of the old road N-323, passing through a rock needle to which they refer by "The Old Tooth." In the N-323 it continues to the highway, the cross below and goes back the river line between orchards and choperas to access Cambil next to the debugger of the population. From here we go in the direction of the Corrijada of Matabejid, in the direction of Huelma, to enter the Natural Park of Sierra Magina, with the highest summits of the province of Jaén. We pass through Matabejid and follow a track towards the Port of La Mata, passing through the area of the Castillejo, a magnificent landscape characterized by the ruins of a castle of the ancient medieval border. This mountain of oaks and complaints is kept by one of the most emblematic mountains of the province, La Peña de Jaén. This landscape has the particularity of being the dehesa of complaints on a limestone mountain, higher in Spain. Crossing the Port the road runs between pine trees in the direction of Torres, where we can refresh with the water of the Fuenmayor, and already in the village in the Pila Pellenda, at the entrance to the village, before continuing to Albánchez de Magina by means of pecuaria roads, used as pedestrian roads between populations, accompanied by almonds and cherry trees characteristic of this area, which offers an image of whitened valley during its flowering.
Once again, we pass through Fuente de la Fresneda and through the recreational area of Cuadros until we reach Bedmar, from where we will suddenly go up to El Portillo by one of the most pronounced ramps of the GR to go down to Jódar through the Serrezuela. We left Jódar for the Jódara-Quesada railway station, we crossed the Minor Guadiana looking for Peal Furnaces, then Toya, and continued on the Vega to Quesada.
We are already in the Natural Park of the Serras de Cazorla, Segura and the Villas. As we leave Quesada we will pass under the site known as El Chorro, in search of the Monastery of Monte Zion, and from here to the hermitage of San Isicio, near Cazorla. We will leave Cazorla on one of the most beautiful roads of the whole route, we will see the hermitage of the Virgin of the Cabeza, on a road between pine trees we will pass by the Fountain of the Bear in search of the village of Vadillo Castril, then the village of Loma de Mª Ángeles, later on, through the Natural Park of the Sierra de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas, Catorrios, and through the avenue of the Guadalquivir, passing near the Aguamulas River, we will go to the Fountain to Segura to reach Pontones. From Pontones we continue to Poyotello, we go down next to the channel of the young Rio Zumeta to the village of the Ruices, Santiago de la Espada, and finally we cross the provincial limit towards the Puebla de D. Fadrique, in Granada.

We begin our itinerary on the way to Los Orchertos, between olive groves and orchards irrigated by the waters of the Garganton River that are transported through the existing waterfalls. Then we link with the pecuaria track, which ascends between aulagas and rosemary by this path used for transhumanism. In our tour we will see the Torre del Lucero, a relatively well-preserved atalaya, which during the Reconquest (XIII-XV) was part of the defensive system of the kingdom of Granada.

From the Collado del Lucero we see the castles of Bélmez and Solera and we enter into an encore mixed with some maple. We walk through a Kárstico modeling landscape, a limestone that culminates with a dolina known as the Hoyo de la Laguna, the largest of this protected space.

From the end of the path you can link with the signposted path Caño del Aguadero, with beginning in the recreational area Cuadros.

We began our path in the hermitage of the Virgin of Cánava, near a beautiful square with a magnificent fountain of several years, and with a thick grove around.