La Lancha is a village that rose for the construction of the Jandula dam, started in 1927 and completed four years later. It was inhabited by about 3,000 people in the most active moments. It is about 30 kilometres from Andújar in an unpopulated territory where malaria was endemic at that time. There is only one unasphalted road that reaches the village, the JF-5004, which comes from Los Escoriales for a journey also offered as a path marked by the Natural Park.

Already in La Lancha we must continue on the same road down to the dam, where the path begins. If we have reached here by car, we will leave it in this place to take a look at the Jandula reservoir first from the dam itself, and then make the short path. It has been almost eighty years since this great artificial lake was created, where the waters of the Jandula River are reinstated along about twenty kilometres from its channel, flooding its enclosed valley. The reservoir has a capacity of 322 Hm3 with a water sheet of 1,231 hectares. A new piece introduced in the geography of the saw which, of course, has had an important impact on the landscape, ecology and local and regional economy.

The variety of the local fauna, which we can see with some ease, is a clear example of such an induced transformation. Cormorans, with their lustful black plumages and bronze, are already common and it is not rare to see ducks or garzas. In the water there are species such as black-bass, carp or barb, and also a fish that is only found in these waters and tributaries of the Jandula, called the bogardilla.

From the side of the dam to which we have reached, we will take the road that goes south on the left side of the river, a hundred meters above it. Its appearance gives us clues on the landscapes before the construction of the dam. As we move away from the dam we gain perspectives on it, and we better explain its consideration as a historical monument.

Two hundred metres from the beginning of the road we find a stretch enlarged by a excavation at the foot of the village, which is nothing other than the granite quarry that was opened and exploited only for the construction of the dam and other works related to it, case of the village. Part of the image of integration of this great wall into the landscape is due to its stone coating of the place itself. We can see around some block of granite that was left unused, and also some other witnesses of the agitated activity during the construction of the dam. A little later, the road is close at a point where we end our route.

At the beginning of the path you can access the road A-6178 that comes from the shrine of the Virgin of the Head, 19 kilometres from it. We will find the path signs at a road crossing with a track that leaves to the left towards Valdelagrana (see on the map) in a place known as Junquillo. We'll start the road along the track to a geodetic vertex that we'll see very close.

We will do all the way along this track, almost always flanked by fences of farms dedicated to livestock and hunting, and would support the cultivation of cereals. The vegetation varies between real oak forests and more or less dense adhesives. Many other plants of the Mediterranean mountain find here their space, such as the wild pyruetane or pear, of bright and expired leaves, from which we can see some specimens shortly after we start the road. We will also pass in the initial section under a high-voltage line that comes from Puertollano to the Guadalquivir valley to the south, direction in which we will observe the prominent Peñón de Rosalejo (805 m.).

We will leave the Las Losas cortijo to our right, surrounded by a more clear space. Half a kilometre later we will find the so-called moruno oven, a small stone building located between oak trees on the left side of the track.

In just over a kilometer we will reach a crossroads of roads and firewalls. We will have already observed the combination of both, that there are ways through which we have clear margins to serve at the same time as firewalls. This helps to prevent and extinguish fires, which pose a major threat, especially to low-mountain cynegetic farms, which host populations of boar, deer, gamo or muflon, but also to other more clarified spaces, such as dehesas, which have a predominantly livestock use. The high biodiversity of both types of mountains is protected by these infrastructure, and also by complementary ones, such as the rafts that abound in both types of farms.

Almost a kilometer later, we will find another crossing of roads this time belonging to surrounding farms. We will continue forward and a few meters later we will turn south, moving back to a more wooded area.

It is a good place to stop and look at the mountain chains that rise on the horizon in the northwest. About ten kilometres away we will see the Quintana saw, whose summits draw the border of the provinces of Jaén and Ciudad Real, and also of the Natural Park. In it we can distinguish the Burcio from the Pino (1,291 m), the highest peak of the Andalusian Sierra Morena. Further west is the Madrona saw, where the highest levels of all Sierra Morena are reached. Between the two saws is the main step to the famous valley of Alcudia, in which Fuenhot is located, a citizen population that we can see later. Already in the last stretch of the path we pass through a new crossing near a large cordial. A mile later the path ends in a suggestive dehesa next to a Canadian step.

If you come from Andújar on the road A-6177 towards the shrine of the Virgin of the Head, we will have to get to its vicinity, thus walking about 30 kilometers, to be located at the point of start of the path, located next to the road two hundred meters before the last crossing to the sanctuary.

We are at the foot of the hill of the Cabezo, the promontory where the sanctuary that we have in front of us is located, less than a kilometre away in a straight line and about 50 meters away. Surrounded by a forest of black pines, we take the way to the south-west, just up to a crossing - at about three hundred meters - where we have to turn 90 degrees to our right. We soon arrived at a cortijo called La Huerta de los Fráiles, a name that makes clear reference to its use by religious guardians of the sanctuary. We will round the building by recovering the south-west direction to keep it alone for two hundred meters, until we reach a crossing at which we will deviate by a track to the right.

We will pass under a high-voltage electric line and we will immediately cross the Membrellar stream, from where we can see panoramic views towards the valley of the Jandula River as it passes through the New Place, an emblematic public mountain for its great ecological and cynetic wealth. We gradually approach the slopes of the hill of the Cabezo and the urbanized space that occupy there various cofradies and facilities linked to the sanctuary and to the famous and multitudinary Romany that is celebrated on the last Sunday of April.

Moving in the same direction on foot of the hill, we will reach the asphalt road on which we start our way, to which we will join on our left to walk it just over 50 meters, always with due caution.

Thus we will reach the steep street of the Sanctuary, which goes up to it with a considerable slope of about three hundred meters. Above the hill ends the path, although here we are offered different offers, such as visiting the sanctuary and its surroundings, or approaching the lookout from where a wide view of Sierra Morena is covered.

Sierra Morena is a great natural space of internationally recognized importance. Much of the water resources consumed in the Guadalquivir basin, especially for urban supply, come from its vast territory.

The path begins in one of its water reservoirs and runs through spaces where we will find the explanation of its valued quality, which is no other than that of the conservation of the Mediterranean mountain, the dehesas and other ecosystems where many animals live, including the Iberian lince.

Leaving the town of Baños de la Encina, which well deserves a visit, we will head for the dam of the Rumblar reservoir on the road JH-5044 (5.5 Km). After crossing it, we will find the beginning of the path (see on the map), which runs in its entirety on the unasphalt road JV-5041.

We start the road parallel to the top of the reservoir, to get away from it by the moving Lomas of the Mesonero in a west direction. We are surrounded by a Mediterranean mountain made up of characteristic species, including the oak. A place where many animals that benefit from the water, and also from the microclimate, of the large artificial lake are camped. After two and a half miles of road, the relief and vegetation change radically, entering us in a plain with olive groves and open spaces where they embrace braves. It is a suitable place to see deer, especially during the summer season in autumn.

After crossing a stream and passing through other land of work, we will surround the imposing joint of La Nava de Andújar or Santa Amalia, which has, among other buildings, its own hermitage and school, as there were many families of farm workers. Immediately after the corrijada we return to a more rugged forest land next to the Mosquila saw, whose most outstanding hill we will see in front of us.

Walking the two kilometers of dehesas that separate La Nava from the Friscalejo House we will have the opportunity to see one of the many animals that live here. It won't be hard to see deer if we go quietly and watch. They often come close to the boarders we will see in the surroundings of the house. It is much more difficult to see a lince, but we will be attracted to the collaboration between owners and Administration to protect this emblematic species, from which is reported by signs along the way.

Later on, the path surrounds the House of Gorgogil, putting us at the foot of the Mosquila saw where, after a curve, we will find the birth of the Gorgogil stream. We continue to climb up the hill of the Mosquila which, after a firewall, we find again with a denser and more wooded vegetable cover. To our right, there continue to be dehesas in a flattened land, where we will find once again brava livestock.

If we look at the fences, we will observe the use of granite pilotes, the rocky material that dominates the area. But we will also discover samples of many other uses of this noble stone, such as eating machines and all kinds of works or buildings. And when it comes to geological resources, we approach the Scoriales, where the path ends. This is an old mining enclave from which different types of metals were drawn. Its name is derived from the scum or waste from the exploitation and treatment of minerals, which were accumulated here.

The rise to the Magina peak (2167 m.) will take you to the roof of the province of Jaén. This level assigns to the Natural Park of Sierra Magina the third altitude of Andalusia, after Sierra Nevada and the Sierra de Baza. The effort is demanding, but it has the reward to know a unique landscape. The Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and the Villas, Sierra Nevada, the Sierra Sur de Jaén, La Loma de Ubeda or the Valle del Guadalquivir are some of the panoramic views from the summit area.
The tour is divided into three sections: the forest area, altiplanicie livestock and high mountain section.
At the beginning of the path, in a curve there is a detour that goes to the Chaganton ravine, which we will not take. Our path is always ascending, on a wide and firm track of land. Zigzagando gains height for four kilometres, while passing through a dense repopulation pine. This first stage of approach begins to show us views, and takes us to the interior of Sierra Magina.

Once the first climb has been crowned, we will be flying along a mile and a half by the Barranco de las Salinas, which serves as a transition to the last stretch of ascension. This is an area of pastures in which we find a very diverse vegetation such as complaints, larice pines and juniper, natural representatives of this bioclimatic floor. The transition ends slightly above the Tincada de la Cruz, a very characteristic livestock construction.

A few hundred meters above the dye the track is over and the path begins, which ascends in the east direction, and is marked enough to follow it without difficulty. Only in conditions of strong snow can the path mark be lost. The Barranco de las Covatillas, the first stretch of the path, leads us to the Port of Bolos, which is located on the east side, towards the Barranco del Garganton and beyond the Valley of the Jandulilla. At this point the path turns left facing north towards the summit area.

From here on the path passes through a stony area, on limestone. The landscape leaves the pineapples behind, and it will be the rake savannas that accompany us to the summit. Only something above we find the fork towards the summit of Miramundos, to the right. We will continue on our path, to the left and gradually gain height. Then we lose height at the head of a ravine slightly cooler. From this point on we start the final stretch until the peak of the Magina peak. The road is adapted to the relief. First by a few rocky steps, to reach a circular rocky depression on the hillside (a dolin or limestone sink), where one of the restored snow wells is. The end is a stone's throw. The maximum level is a high surrounded by other immediate summits (Jails, Peña de Jaén, Miramundos...), so the summit is one more of a crest.

The return will always be in decline, on the same path of ascent, provided that we do not choose other alternatives of return or combination with different paths, only recommended for those who have the experience and information to connect them.

The tour is a permanent rise, not very pronounced, but long. This path will take us from the valley bottom to the Sierra Mágina Natural Park summit area, traditional summer grazing sites, high-rise local boarders or pastures. This is therefore a traditional livestock road, from the transsterminery - local movement of cattle from valley to mountain.

The recreational area of Cuadros is the starting point, the place where we can leave our vehicle. The track rises for several kilometres between the pine slopes. In this first stretch, to the right of the track, we will have the view of the deep valleys of mountain torrents that converge and collect all the waters of this sector of the massif. The valley of the river Cuadros, the ravine of Mosquito and Peru, interesting for its cornicabral, vegetation characteristic of this area.

The first stretch of the path ends in the Control of the Valley, building next to a control barrier that has an explanade where we can rest. Depending on the season here we will find water to refresh.
But the stop must be brief because we have not yet made a third of the climb route. On the right side of the road you will find a path, with stone reclining, a path restored years ago in a field of work. It is a shortcut, which we do not recommend for its inclination.

We still have to reach the Era del Curilla, right on the roof of the Barranco del Atanor's head at 1100 meters of altitude; a natural step that connects with the east side of the massif. The era that was located there used the currents between the two sides to feed the wheat by taking advantage of the permanent passage of air.
We are left with the longest stretch, just over eight kilometers still until the end of the climb. During this part of the journey the road is adapted to the slope of the Sierra de la Cruz, drawing the rails, which one behind the other allows us to gain height. The landscape changes to a mountain of salgarean pines, tall tree, combined with cornicabra and even nozzles. Let us not forget that we are on the northern side of Magina, something more humid than the rest of the Sierra. To the left of the road we will find different mortars, or high and isolated hills. On the right we enjoyed the impressive view from the top of the rails we saw at the beginning of the itinerary.

The road loses its inclination, and there is only a plain until the Caño del Aguadero. The tour is flanked by high pastures, traditionally frequented by sheep flocks. When you pass through the Hoya de la Laguna - to the left of the walk - a small dolina or depression in the rocky limestone background, you will be very close to your destination. The appearance of chopos announce the presence of water, of the jets of the spring of the Caño del Aguadero.

The tincture, the fountain and the vents are the end of the road. This place is a resting place in the middle of the massif, and is part of a royal canyon. The meadows, the constant presence of water, the bearing and the shadow of the chopos invite you to spend a good time of rest in this corner of the Andalusian mountain. Peña Grajera (2014 m.) crowns the landscape and reminds us of the high mountain conditions we are in.

The return will be made by moving the way up, or by connecting with other paths of different sides. This option requires careful planning and experience in mountain orientation, in addition to many more hours to return to the villages around the massif.

The tour is a permanent rise, not very pronounced, but long. This path will take us from the valley bottom to the Sierra Mágina Natural Park summit area, traditional summer grazing sites, high-rise local boarders or pastures. This is therefore a traditional livestock road, from the transsterminery - local movement of cattle from valley to mountain.
The recreational area of Cuadros is the starting point, the place where we can leave our vehicle. The track rises for several kilometres between the pine slopes. In this first stretch, to the right of the track, we will have the view of the deep valleys of mountain torrents that converge and collect all the waters of this sector of the massif. The valley of the river Cuadros, the ravine of Mosquito and Peru, interesting for its cornicabral, vegetation characteristic of this area.

The first stretch of the path ends in the Control of the Valley, building next to a control barrier that has an explanade where we can rest. Depending on the season here we will find water to refresh.
But the stop must be brief because we have not yet made a third of the climb route. On the right side of the road you will find a path, with stone reclining, a path restored years ago in a field of work. It is a shortcut, which we do not recommend for its inclination.

We still have to reach the Era del Curilla, right on the roof of the Barranco del Atanor's head at 1100 meters of altitude; a natural step that connects with the east side of the massif. The era that was located there used the currents between the two sides to feed the wheat by taking advantage of the permanent passage of air.
We are left with the longest stretch, just over eight kilometers still until the end of the climb. During this part of the journey the road is adapted to the slope of the Sierra de la Cruz, drawing the rails, which one behind the other allows us to gain height. The landscape changes to a mountain of salgarean pines, tall tree, combined with cornicabra and even nozzles. Let us not forget that we are on the northern side of Magina, something more humid than the rest of the Sierra. To the left of the road we will find different mortars, or high and isolated hills. On the right we enjoyed the impressive view from the top of the rails we saw at the beginning of the itinerary.

The road loses its inclination, and there is only a plain until the Caño del Aguadero. The tour is flanked by high pastures, traditionally frequented by sheep flocks. When you pass through the Hoya de la Laguna - to the left of the walk - a small dolina or depression in the rocky limestone background, you will be very close to your destination. The appearance of chopos announce the presence of water, of the jets of the spring of the Caño del Aguadero.

The tincture, the fountain and the vents are the end of the road. This place is a resting place in the middle of the massif, and is part of a royal canyon. The meadows, the constant presence of water, the bearing and the shadow of the chopos invite you to spend a good time of rest in this corner of the Andalusian mountain. Peña Grajera (2014 m.) crowns the landscape and reminds us of the high mountain conditions we are in.

The return will take the way up, which will take about three and a half hours or four. It would be possible to connect with other paths of different aspects. This option requires careful planning and experience in mountain orientation, in addition to many more hours to return to the villages around the massif.