The Heart of the Kingdom
ROUTE FROM JÓDAR TO JAÉN
A BARRIER BETWEEN TWO RIVAL POWERS
This route runs through the central area of the province of Jaén and serves as a thread for understanding how the transition from Muslim to Christian rule took place, along with the resulting changes in structure and organisation.
Following the conquest of Jaén, a Kingdom of Jaén began to take shape as a border territory with the Kingdom of Granada. The origins of Jaén as a provincial capital derive from its status as the capital of the Chora of Yayyān during the Muslim period, an era from which significant monuments have survived, such as the Arab Baths or Santa Catalina Castle. Castles such as those of Jódar, La Guardia or Huelma, although now displaying a Christian-era structure, have an important Muslim past as sites that protected the capital of the Cora of Ŷayyān, the Arabic name from which the place-name Jaén derives. Other castles the traveller can admire along the route include those of Jimena, Bedmar and Albanchez de Mágina.
Route card
Santa Catalina Castle, Jaén
Jaén
HILL, CROSS AND PROVINCIAL CAPITAL
Across the summit and the northern and southern slopes of Cerro de Santa Catalina lie the defensive structures of the city of Jaén, which have undergone a complex historical and architectural evolution over the centuries.
The original fortress had two enclosures — the Abrehuí Castle and the Alcázar Viejo (Old Citadel) — but after the Christian conquest in 1246, the Castilians built a third, the Alcázar Nuevo (New Citadel), which still retains its original structure today. Its outer perimeter is defined by a walled enclosure incorporating six towers (square in plan, except for the easternmost, the Torre de Vela or de Guardia, which is pentagonal). East of the castle gate, on the northern side of the enclosure, stand two barbican towers in succession; the westernmost houses the Chapel of Santa Catalina, patron saint of the city.
Cerro de Santa Catalina witnessed various conflicts, as during the Christian conquest of the Guadalquivir valley, Jaén withstood several sieges until, in 1246, the King of Granada, Ibn al-Ahmar, surrendered the city to Ferdinand III "the Saint." Centuries later, during the War of Independence (19th century), Jaén and its defences once again played an important role in controlling the Upper Guadalquivir.
The surviving sections of the wall descend the hillside, encircling the old town below.
La Guardia Castle
La Guardia
FROM MEDIEVAL BUILDING TO NOBLE RESIDENCE
In 1244, La Guardia was conquered by Ferdinand III as a preliminary step towards the conquest of the city of Jaén. From that moment on, La Guardia became a strategically vital castle for the Kingdom of Castile. Once in Christian hands, the original citadel was transformed into a rectangular fortress with towers at its corners, one of which was set up as the Keep. For two and a half centuries, it was a decisive stronghold in defending the Jaén flank, exposed to Nasrid incursions coming from the Guadalbullón river basin.
After the Castilian Civil War of the 14th century, La Guardia became part of the possessions of the Mexía lineage. The castle was turned into a noble residence, which led to a major renovation of the medieval building, incorporating palatial features and rooms, most notably its Gothic-style doorway and the Church of Santa María.
Jódar Castle
Jódar
WATCHTOWER OVER THREE VAST VALLEYS
Of Muslim origin and later remodelled by the Christians, this castle is one of the oldest in Andalusia, mentioned in documents dating back to the year 860. It was set up as a double line of defence, consisting of an outer enclosure and an inner keep with two large towers of homage at either end, one of Arab origin and the other built by the Christians. Jódar was conquered by the Almoravids in 1090 and, in 1161, became part of the Almohad empire, a period to which the rammed-earth walls preserved in the castle may well belong.
After passing into Castilian hands between 1127 and 1229, it went on to become one of the most important strongholds on the border with Granada and the seat of a lordship, which led to constant clashes and changes of ownership. Later, the castle would be the scene of other conflicts, such as the Carlist Wars and the War of Independence.
