It cost him the effort, but in the end, and despite Toledo's resistance, in 1534 he obtained the title, but his descendants could not keep it, as he was reintegrated to his former owners after a sound lawsuit in 1634. Cobos would soon complete his dream of becoming a great lord with the purchase of the jiennese villas of Sabiote, Canena, Torres and Velliza (Valladolid); his wife, Maria de Mendoza, rounded this great state with the acquisition of Jimena, whose purchase process was already initiated by her husband.

In all these enclaves, more in his hometown and in that of his wife (Ubeda and Valladolid, respectively), Francisco de los Cobos planned great building programs of marked artistic and propaganda significance. This double intention is perfectly reflected in the project of the church of Santa Maria, which was in all probability carried out by his trusted man, the deán Ortega, who in turn would entrust the works and direction in Andrés de Vandelvira, the master of the house's quarry, especially from the works in El Salvador de Ubeda.

The new church would rise on the way of the River Cerezuelo, but for this it was necessary to abovednot only the space dedicated to the church, but also the rest of the same located in front of it. Thus the temple closes and presides over the square, which also had the City Hall building (now hidden) and a beautiful pilar-abrevadero, which Chueca Goitia attributes to the hand of Andrés de Vandelvira, although the date 1606 carved in its large central billboard indicates otherwise. We must not forget that the advance to Toledo was returned the traces of Cobos and his descendants, the Marquis of Camarasa, had to be erased in all those goods where they were present.

This temple, located in a unique natural setting, suffered a catastrophic raid at the end of the 17th century, taking with it almost all its movable property. The fire by the Napoleonic troops in the War of Independence left the factory ruined, remaining standing the header, part of the perimeter walls, one of the two foot towers, with various remains, and a cover on the side of the Epistle. The destruction and the limited documentation found so far about its constructive process makes it difficult to set the stages and the teachers responsible for its factory. In any case, the difference in style between the header and the rest seems clear. Andrés de Vandelvira is present in the head and chapel of San Isicio, leaving out of his language the part of the feet and the side cover, which, according to José María Crespo, was able to run to a large extent by Alonso Barba.

The canyon vault of the presbyterium, the serlian vanity of the tester, the angular pillars that would form the cruise, with half Corinthian columns and fantastic heads, and the snail staircase topped into a cylindrical body are certainly elements used by Vandelvira around the 1540's. The vault of the chapel of San Isicio, for its part, is closely related to the one located under the tower-bell tower of El Salvador de Ubeda. The plant, made up of a ship and cruise to cover (at least in the initial project) with boned vaults, would approach the type of La Guardia, a conventual church in which Vandelvira also left the best of its art in the major chapel and cruise.

The ruins of Santa María, currently in the process of restoration in accordance with the project of the architect Mr Pedro Salmerón, still show today the proud architecture with which it was conceived by one of the most influential men of the 16th century in Spain, Don Francisco de los Cobos, who was also lucky to have at his service Andrés de Vandelvira, one of the most outstanding singers of the Spanish Renaissance.

The title, granted by Philip II, allowed him to have full jurisdiction, made symbolized by the presence of rolls and picotas. While the former reflect the new administrative and legal status, picotta is the place where the prisoners were punished.

The rolls marked the jurisdictional limit and were commemorative monuments of the award of the title of Villa. The picotas were stone columns, more or less ornamented, where punishments and public scarings were applied. At present, the three conserved in the municipality are crouched and topped by crosses.

Former Xandulilla. Influent on the left bank of the Guadalquivir River. Collect the waters from the northeastern face of the Sierra Magina massif. The associated valley is given the same name. Unwind in the Guadalquivir River, in the area of Ubeda the old one. The Arab geographer Al-Zuhrí, mentions him by the name of Wadi-l-Ard, or Rio de la Tierra.

He named the former population of Xandulilla, of which there are many archaeological remains of great importance spread throughout the area. In the 17th century it was known as "Villa de Felix" with its own jurisdiction. It is a river with a normally low and variable flow rate and without regulatory structures. It is born under the Port of the Gallardos, also known in its first stretch as Rio Huelma, its main tributaries, both on the left are the Gualijar River and the Garganton River that are born in the main massif of Magina and after a very short journey they result in the Jandulilla, apart from numerous intermittent rags and ramps.

It receives from the right to the rivers Onsares, Guadalmena and Guadalén. On the left to the rivers Cotillas, Arroyo Frio, Carrizas, Morles, Trujala and the creek of Peñolite. On its way through the Sierra de Segura.

In Roman times it was called the Tago, Tagus or Tugio River, just as its birth was the Sierra de Tugia. Its Arabic name "wad al-ihmar" means "red river," which is curiously as it is called in the area, by the red color of its waters.

The forest track, 9 km long, is very pleasant to travel and has no loss, as it is only to follow right, and is also marked as GR-7. It always runs by the river, with very little level, except in a section where it is separated by forming several elevation curves.

It is not necessary to travel throughout to enjoy these places, but if you arrive at the end you will find a lookout with unforgettable views of the Reco del Aguamulas. It is the rocky amphitheatre where this river is born, on whose base there are abandoned meadows and gardens.

You will also see the cords - already ruin - of La Fresneilla. In them lived the last inhabitant of these valleys, called Máximo Fernández Cruz, nicknamed "the Cojo de la Fresnedilla." This serrano character fought for thirty years not to leave the land he was born, from which were expelled the close to a hundred neighbors of the Aguamulas environment who suffered expropriation when the National Cote of Hunting was created in 1960. In 1982, Maximo paid for his resistance with the prison.

We suggest...

• Be attentive to see some example of the dark green Valverde lizard, endemic to the Park and discovered in 1958 very close to here.

• Continue beyond the lookout and take a walk in the La Fresnedilla area. If the water abounds, you will see the waterfalls of the birth of the Aguamulas.

In the campsite Llanos de Arance (road A-319) you have to take the forest track that crosses the Guadalquivir. At 3 km, after wading the Aguamulas, the crossing is taken to the right and followed 1 km to the barrier in the forest house of Los Bonal, where you can leave the car.

The Network is made up of nine Interpretation Centres in Almazaras Oileteras in the Sierra Sur de Jaén for the promotion of olive cultivation. Each Centre has a different theme on various aspects related to olive oil, such as olive oil production systems and evolution throughout history, olive oil qualities and uses, olive oil cultivation systems, olive oil analysis and olive oil marketing system, olive biology, olive varieties, olive by-products, olive oil and its uses, olive heritage, traditions, olive oil types and olive oil quality and history.

The Interpreting Centres have a space of about 85 square meters arranged for interpretation, teaching and tourism use, equipped with latest technology such as touch screen, and multitactile, to enjoy games and multimedia application, interpretative panels or 3D projection canyon.

It is intended to take advantage of olive oil and olive oil, very abundant resources in the region, such as tourism resources, to value the idle resources (facilities, machinery, documentation etc.) of the almazaras, for as long as they are not in the full process of collecting and producing oil, to promote knowledge about the different uses of the olive and olive oil, to promote knowledge of the culture, traditions and related customs, and to diversify the comarcal tourist offer by taking advantage of the resources available such as the almazaras, olive and olive oil.

Oilticulture will be promoted and disseminated in a didactic, dynamic and attractive way for a wide range of audiences, from thematic staff, professionals from the olive sector, people from school or training ages, to tourists or local audiences. Visitors will be able to connect intellectually and emotionally, through the Network's interpretative script, to the fascinating world of cultural and ethnographic heritage that olive oil and olive oil form around them.

The Comarcal Network of Almazaras Ole- touristic can be visited through the tourist route that connects the nine Interpretation Centres with the main tourist attractions of the municipalities of the Sierra Sur de Jaén: Alcalá la Real, Alcaudete, Castillo de Locubín, Friiles, Fuensana, Jamilena, Martos, Torredelcampo, Valdepeñas de Jaén and Los Villares can be traveled under the enigmas of liquid gold and the sea of olive trees that shape the orography of this territory. On the other hand, the visit to the Centres will be completed with an internal route through the facilities of the milling plants that make up the Network, adapted to the resources, and particular characteristics of each of them and of the visiting public.

The project is funded by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD) at 40% in the framework of the Global Action Plan, of the Council for Agriculture, Fisheries and the Environment, and by 60% from the Sustainable Tourism Initiative - Lands of Romance and Legend, of the Council for Tourism and Trade.